Daily Archives: October 10, 2009

Ben Ali — Founder of Ben’s Chili Bowl — Dies

bens-chili

By Ezra Klein

The IFA was remiss yesterday in not acknowledging the passing of 82-year-old Ben Ali, the Trinidadian-immigrant and former dentistry student who opened Ben’s Chili Bowl in 1958.

Obituaries shouldn’t lie: I think the food at Ben’s verges on horrible. And yes, I’ve had the chili half-smoke. But Ben’s has been something more than a great restaurant: it’s been a great institution. A fixture in a community that needed the vote of confidence. The restaurant stayed open through the 1968 riots, when it served both the protesters and the police officers sent to quell their fury. It stayed open through the neighborhood’s deterioration in the 70s and 80s, ceasing to sell cakes and pies because drug addicts were drawn to the sweets. In stayed open when U Street was ripped up for the construction of the green line, and then became a central feature of the revitalized corridor.

I don’t like the food at Ben’s Chili Bowl. I haven’t eaten there in years. But I’d give up almost every restaurant in the District before letting them leave. DC could use more great food, but what it could really use is more confidence in its own character, and more places that the whole city knows and feels ownership of. Luckily, Ben Ali made arrangements to ensure continuity: each of his three sons was given the middle name “Ben,” in case they wanted to take over the restaurant. Two of them did so, and Ben — and Ben’s — lives on.

(Picture via So Good Blog.)

Legends: Explaining Why You Hate The Yankees, One Tuna Roll At A Time

legendsclubhouseBy Spencer Ackerman

The picture you see to your left is an iPhone-produced facsimile of the Legends clubhouse/restaurant behind the visitors’ dugout along the third-base line of Yankee Stadium. That is, new Yankee Stadium. The last time I went to old Yankee Stadium, I paid a lot of money for good seats to take my then-ill mother to Mothers’ Day at the Stadium in 2006. Two i-bank douches seated behind us talked very loudly for much of the game about their latest conquests, and as much as I figured they were actually cruising each other and deserved support during that brave moment in their lives, I don’t play that shit with my mother in tow. Many stink-eyes and one disappointing matchup later, I left the Stadium thinking it was consigned to be a redoubt of the overprivileged.

Then last night I attended — unexpectedly, and fortuitously — the amazing 11-inning second game of the Yankees-Twins division series. I won’t say anything about how I obtained the tickets I got, but suffice it to say I had no business sitting where I did, especially as the tickets were a Wonka-esque passageway to Legends. The silver wristband provided by those tickets allow access to a never-ending cascade of food and alcohol.

And this was high-end stuff. Two sushi chefs assembled and sliced a mass-production volume of spicy tuna rolls, perfectly fatty and delicate. I liked it so much I ate it all game, paired with fresh slices of salmon and fatty tuna. During my pre-game sushi, eaten in the clubhouse, I looked over my flight of Stella Artois and there was Bill O’Reilly. Suddenly I noticed people in our section come to an abrupt pause in their meals before breaking into deep, affectionate smiles. Turning around, I saw: Rudy Giuliani and Judith Nathan had arrived.

Depending on when you believe life begins, I attended my first Yankee game either six months in utero or three months out of the womb. You could say I’m a dedicated fan. And I have never hated the Yankees, and the sheer decadence they callously encourage, more than when I stepped in that clubhouse. To think I used to smirk at the post-Candlestick Stadium (Pac Bell Park? After all of this telecom consolidation, what’s it even called these days?) for serving garlic fries. I ate a New England-style lobster roll — it was so fucking creamy and refreshing I was only half-conflicted for ordering it (a New England confection in Yankee Stadium could be a recipe for a jinx) — in between my sushi, all of which was washed down with moats of Dewer’s and beer. I told my father what I ate. He shook his head. “You faggot,” was all he could say.

Now, of course I don’t hate the Yankees, especially not after a surprisingly powerful performance from A.J. Burnett; three RBIs from A-Rod; a stunning display of pitching from Dave Robertson to strand three Twinkies who loaded the bases with no outs (yes; Mauer was robbed by the ump, but nevermind that for now); and Teixiera’s worth-every-penny walkoff homer in the 11th. But I can no longer fairly object when you talk about the evilness of the Empire. Yes, my liberalism was offended by that clubhouse. But like Tricky said: My evil is strong.