
By Ezra Klein
Matt notes that asking him about burritos is “a bit like asking a Californian for bagel recommendations.” That needn’t be true. New York does have some good burritos. And Matt has been to California. And his taste in food is generally quite good. But his recommendations are deeply worrying.
Start with Well-Dressed Burrito. When I first came to DC, and first complained about the absence of Mexican food, this is what Matt, and our then-colleage, Sam Rosenfeld, said to shush me. It’ll be okay, they promised. We’ll go to Well-Dressed. The atmospherics were good. Well-Dressed Burrito is on 19th st, in a small alley. Alley food is generally good, otherwise it wouldn’t survive. Well-Dressed is not good. It’s the other thing. Bad.
Well-Dressed belongs to that particular class of restaurants that obscures taste with calories. The burritos are HUGE. They rip beneath the weight, and the grease, of their filling. But that’s all they taste of: Grease, and meat texture, and stuff. They’re what would happen if you sauted the base burrito ingredients in lots of oil then put the product in a blender. Filling, yes. But not a good burrito.
If you’re looking for a burrito in Downtown DC, I don’t know what to tell you. I’d probably counsel Chipotle. It’s not a traditional burrito, but it’s better at doing whatever it is that it’s doing than its competitors are at offering a satisfying burrito experience. Our range, however, is Washington, DC. And here I can help. When I moved to town, I lived at 14th and Chapin. Walking the streets one winter night, homesick and hungry, I came across a little joint called Ercilia’s, on Mt. Pleasant and Irving. They served me a burrito of well-marinated meat and rice and jalapeno and topped it all with warming ranchero sauce and melted cheese. That’s a burrito. It tasted of home. Within a few months, I’d move to Mt. Pleasant. Fast Burrito, at the top of the street, also serves a delicious burrito. Pollo Sabrosa has wonderful tacos — just tortilla and meat and onion and cilantro, try the tongue — and so too does Tacos District Federal, on 14th and Oak (try the chorizo and the goat). Don Jaimes, at Mt. Pleasant and Lamont, has the bext Mexican breakfast in town. Get the huevos rancheros, the huevos divorciados, the migas, or the chorizo wrap.
If you’re not in Mt. Pleasant, Mixtec, at 18th and Columbia, is good, but much too expensive. Dos Pepitos Bakery, on Columbia near Citybikes, is much better, and much cheaper. There’s also a taco cart on Columbia road that I haven’t tried.